I begin the day walking with mild knee pain! I worry. I realize that my body is reminding me of what an ordeal this walk entails on the physical level and other ways too. We were at the bar having breakfast when Becky did reiki on the knee and it worked! the pain is gone. So we walk and feel the crunch of ice on the road beneath our boots; we walk along muddy path due to the ice melting, and along a rocky path even more slippery.
In Fontfrias the cows come to welcome us! We keep walking and find a spot with a nice cement bench to rest and have a bite of our bread and cheese. An old woman with missing teeth and bright laughing green eyes comes walking down the street, greets us and offers to make us a bocadillo. We finally relent and say yes and she is off running to a nearby house to fix us the bocadillo. we go on and sit on the bench that is near her place. Moro, the woman’s dog approaches us and then started to fight with a neighbor’s dog, Rufo, the dog that had been lying in the middle of the road–reminds me of Oreo, the neighborhood dog in Laredo. Rufo had also come by to say hello but went back to lying in the street until Moro came up. We were eating when a younger woman, the daughter, came and opened a barn door so we could go in and get out of the wind. When I took my first bite, I must’ve done it “off” because my jaw hurt. We fed Luna, another dog, a piece of bread. The old woman whipped up some crepes for dessert! We asked how much, and she said lo que sea su voluntad. So we gave her 4 Euros each. the crepes were ice cold but sweet and tasty. We continued walking past small villages with the same dank smell–in some places stronger than others. This morning Becky told me a story about her dance teacher in Laredo. I am convinced I want the story for Champú, my novel. I need to interview her. I didn’t sleep well with all the snoring. The same peregrinos as last night are here: Quentin, Brazilian couple, Spanish woman, the men who were at the Valcarce albergue and a woman who passed us earlier in the day. We all eat at the Bar Fernandez; bocadillos was ll that was available. The afrolatina server with an attitude switched with the Brazilian. Tomorrow we walk to Samos so I must rest. I massage my feet with Vicks Vaporub–at the Estella albergue, Alba told me that it was recommended for tired feet. Fernando who did the pedicure in Madrid had also recommended Vicks for tired feet!